Interview with Kay Hilbert, Global Head of Design Fabrics & Specials at KARL MAYER
Productivity, flexibility, and above all, new possibilities in textiles: With two new Jacquard double needle bar raschel machines, KARL MAYER is setting the tone for spacer fabrics for footwear and sportswear at an in-house product show during ITMA ASIA 2026. The wireless Jacquard control system plays a key role here, not only simplifying operation but also opening up new possibilities for patterning, functionality, and future machine designs.
In a press interview, Kay Hilbert, Global Head of Design Fabrics & Specials at KARL MAYER, explains more about this solution and the new models.
- At the upcoming ITMA ASIA, you will be showcasing several world-first innovations in RD machines, thereby demonstrating your strength in the field of spacer fabrics. What market requirements are the focus of these new developments?
Our new Jacquard double-needle bar raschel machines are specifically designed to meet the needs of the footwear industry. The key priorities here are efficient production, flexibility, and design versatility. Our machines offer all of these. They produce innovative products with the highest quality and profitability.
The new RDJ 7/3 and RDJ 6/2, presented at our ITMA-accompanying product show at KARL MAYER (China), are extremely versatile and up to 70% more productive than comparable machines on the market. The shorter production times help our customers respond more quickly to new market demands and produce even smaller run lengths cost-effectively.
At the same time, the machines open up significantly more creative freedom. On the seven-bar RDJ, for example, functional zones and integrated patterns for improved stability or breathability can be designed with significantly more intricate contours and a wider variety of options than ever before. Hole designs with nearly round and larger openings, multidimensional surfaces, embossed effects, and a wide range of color variations further expand the design spectrum. This enables our customers to bring ideas to life that, in some cases, haven‘t even been conceived yet.
The RDJ 6/2 in gauge E 32 adds another distinguishing feature: an exceptionally fine fabric appearance. We are seeing a clear trend toward finer fabrics and the use of finer yarns. Our E-32 WARP KNITS in particular, offer a cost-effective alternative to circular-knits for garments and open up new application possibilities in the outerwear sector. We‘re showcasing these new possibilities with a new generation of shoe fabrics from our globally networked TEXTILE INNOVATION CENTER, which were also presenting at ITMA ASIA.
- KARL MAYER has been developing and manufacturing double needle bar raschel machines for several decades and continues to set new trends, particularly in the area of 3D shoe fabrics. In which technological topics do you currently see the greatest potential for the future?
A key focus of our innovation efforts is the wireless piezo control of the Jacquard bars. Instead of using cable systems, the actuators are controlled via conductive tracks embedded in the bars. This significantly reduces the amount of manual handling required on the machine.
For example, when retrofitting a machine, up to 240 cable strings, each with 17 ribbon cables, previously had to be managed. With Wireless Jacquard, this process is significantly faster and easier: the piezo elements are simply plugged in. Replacing them in the event of a malfunction is also much less complicated. At the same time, operators have better access to the threads running into the knitting zone.
For us as machine builders, however, the truly great potential goes beyond handling. Wireless Jacquard opens up entirely new opportunities in terms of machine design and pattern creation. The wireless system creates space for more than two Jacquard bars and enables the split Jacquard to operate counter-lapped. This creates new degrees of freedom for the production of spacer fabrics with looks and functions that were previously impossible to achieve. The RDJ 7/3 and RDJ 6/2 in Changzhou provide a glimpse of this. This technology will also be implemented in our RASCHELTRONIC models in the near future.
Given all these advantages, wireless Jacquard bar control is a key technology for us. We have developed our own solution that eliminates electrical hazards for the operator and reflects our company’s commitment to quality. In addition, there are opportunities for further technological add-ons. We will strategically pursue these opportunities to further enhance the value our machine delivers to customers.
- So you have some real innovations in store for your visitors at the KARL MAYER (China) Product Show. What are your expectations for the in-house exhibition?
I‘m especially looking forward to the direct exchange – both with our existing customers and with new players along the textile value chain. The Product Show gives us the opportunity to showcase not only new machines but nearly our entire product portfolio, and to let visitors experience its potential firsthand with innovative spacer fabrics.
We have prepared this comprehensive machine and textile show with great care. Teams at all our locations have worked intensively and closely together. I am proud of the result.
Together with the capabilities of our TEXTILE INNOVATION CENTER in Changzhou, we can demonstrate the new opportunities our RDJ machines and textile solutions offer, particularly for dynamic growth markets such as footwear and sports and athleisure apparel.
