The tremendous gains that have been made in the productivity and efficiency of technologies all along the textile manufacturing supply chain in a comparatively short period of time will be very evident at ITMA ASIA + CITME exhibition in Singapore.
Smarter yarns
In the past decade, for example, yarn spinning systems have integrated smart technologies such as IoT-enabled monitoring, predictive maintenance and AI-driven optimisation. Ring spinning machines can now achieve speeds of 30,000 rpm, while rotor spinning has reached 160,000 rpm. Air-jet spinning systems, such as Murata’s Vortex, produce certain yarns at speeds exceeding 500 m/min, making them the fastest available commercial systems to date.
Complex weaves
Automated weaving machines are meanwhile now fully capable of handling complex patterns and variable yarns at unprecedented speeds. Electronic jacquards paired with air-jet and rapier looms enable intricate designs while maintaining high productivity.
Automation has reduced downtime by enabling quicker warp changes and integrated diagnostics are making weaving machines more versatile, while laser-guided systems, electronic shedding mechanisms, real-time data analytics and predictive maintenance have become standard features.
Modern air-jet looms like Toyota’s JAT series now operate at speeds exceeding 2,000 ppm in ideal conditions and rapier looms from manufacturers such as ITEMA and Picanol have also seen incremental speed increases, with some models nearing 1,200 ppm.
Textures and densities
Knitting machine speeds have also continued to improve, with circular knitting machines now reaching up to 100 rpm for certain applications, while flatbed knitting machines have advanced to include multi-gauge capabilities, enabling the production of fabrics with varying textures and densities in a single operation. Industrial knitting machines are now designed on Industry 4.0 principles and IoT-enabled systems have become commonplace, allowing real-time monitoring, predictive maintenance and remote diagnostics.
Seamless knitting technology, pioneered by Santoni and Shima Seiki, has gained significant traction, particularly in the production of sportswear and intimate apparel. Shima Seiki’s WHOLEGARMENT technology has been a notable success. Digital programming and 3D simulation software are also allowing designers to preview and modify patterns before production, minimising material wastage and in many cases eliminating the need for physical samples.
Customised and on demand
One of the most notable areas of progress at successive recent ITMA shows has been the rapid rise of digital textile printing technology, bringing with it unprecedented opportunities for customisation and on-demand production.
Digital printing is cost-effective for small to medium production runs since it eliminates setup costs and lengthy processes and businesses are able to respond to trends very rapidly due to the shorter lead times. Its flexibility also allows for quick design changes and customisation. This technology uses less water and ink compared to conventional methods and minimises fabric waste. Aligned with online shopping, it is now successfully driving out over-production from established supply chains.
Printhead evolution
It is important to stress that just twenty years ago, digital textile printing was in its infancy and primarily used for prototyping, sampling and niche applications. While still bringing many advantages, early machines relied on piezoelectric inkjet technology, with print speeds averaging 10-50 square metres per hour (m²/h).
By the time of ITMA 2015 in Milan, substantial advances in the speed and quality digital textile printing were demonstrated. New printhead technologies featured higher nozzle densities and faster firing frequencies, enabling speeds of 100-300 m²/h for mid-range machines.
The development of reactive, acid and pigment inks tailored for digital printing expanded its application to a broader range of fabrics and roll-to-roll printers, such as those by EFI Reggiani and Mimaki, became industry staples, offering faster throughput and improved colour consistency.
Single-pass machines
The emergence of high-speed industrial digital textile printers, however, has only really emerged in the past decade, with companies like EFI and Kornit Digital developing systems capable of printing at speeds of 500-1,000 m²/h and rivalling traditional rotary screen printing for many applications.
Single-pass printing technology have also been a game-changer. Unlike multi-pass systems, where printheads move back and forth, single-pass machines have fixed printheads covering the entire fabric width. This allows for continuous, high-speed printing with systems such as EFI Reggiani’s BOLT and the Pike systems achieving speeds of 800-1,800 m²/h.
Waterless pigment printing, as championed by companies like Kornit Digital, has also gained significant momentum, eliminating the need for water-intensive post-processing.
Digital textile printing has now entered an era of ultra-fast, eco-friendly solutions. Machines that achieve speeds exceeding 2,000 m²/h and with advanced printhead designs and AI-driven optimisation are enabling consistent, high-speed production with minimal downtime.
Tip of the iceberg
Sustainability and resource efficiency inevitably remains a core focus in the development of all textile manufacturing technologies and the significance of energy-efficient motors should not be underestimated. Another current focus is on the seamless processing of recycled fibres and yarns at all stages.
This blog has inevitably only covered the tip of a considerable iceberg when it comes to the fast-moving advances in textile technology and there will be very much more for visitors to discover at the ITMA ASIA + CITME exhibition in Singapore this October.
