A major opportunity is arising for forward-looking textile yarn spinners across Asia, who in the face of the ever-increasing costs of labour, energy and raw materials, can generally do little but look to continuously cut costs wherever possible, in order to remain profitable.
It now appears increasingly likely that as a consequence of the European Union’s Green Deal and the sustainable goals of international brands, a defined percentage of recycled content in fabrics will soon become mandatory, in the first instance for fabrics sold across the European markets. This will enable Asia’s advanced spinning mills to supply yarns containing recycled content at a premium in the coming years.
The global leaders in yarn spinning and winding technologies will all be present at ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore this October, including CHTC from China, Japan’s Murata and Toyota Industries, Marzoli and Savio of Italy, Spain’s Electrojet, Rieter and Saurer of Switzerland, Germany’s Oerlikon and Trützschler, and Lakshmi Machine Works (LMW) in India.
Machine advances
These companies work tirelessly to ensure that advances in ring, compact and rotor spinning technologies continue to be made, as well as in air-jet spinning, which has witnessed rapid progress, with machines reaching speeds of 450 metre per minute and making them the preferred choice for high-output operations. Speed increases have generally been achieved through a combination of mechanical innovation, automation and intelligent process control.
In rotor spinning, high-performance rotors made of composite materials and advanced metal alloys have significantly reduced friction and wear, allowing for higher speeds without compromising yarn quality. Similarly, in ring spinning, the development of ceramic and coated metal rings has minimised energy loss and improved durability, enabling greater speeds while reducing breakages.
In ring spinning, spindles are crucial in determining a machine’s operational speed and recent innovations include lightweight, high-speed spindles that reduce vibration and friction. The incorporation of magnetically levitated spindles has further enhanced performance, allowing for ultra-high-speed spinning with minimal wear.
Drafting plays a critical role in ensuring uniformity and strength in spun yarns and computer-controlled drafting systems now allow for more precise fibre control, enabling higher speed spinning without sacrificing quality. Real-time monitoring and automated adjustments help maintain optimal conditions, preventing fibre breakages and ensuring consistency.
AI and automation
The integration of artificial intelligence (AI) and automation in spinning machines is further changing what’s possible. AI-driven sensors can monitor spinning conditions in real-time, making automatic adjustments to optimise speed and minimise defects. Automated doffing – the exchange of full bobbins – and piecing systems have further enhanced efficiency, reducing downtime and increasing overall production speed.
High-speed spinning requires robust and energy-efficient drive systems and modern machines now employ variable frequency drives (VFDs) and high-efficiency motors that adjust energy consumption based on operational requirements.
Air-jet spinning has meanwhile seen refinements in nozzle design and airflow control, enabling higher speeds and improved fibre cohesion. This technology is now widely used for producing high-quality, low-hairiness yarns at record speeds, making it ideal for large-scale textile production.
Recycling
Many Asian cotton spinning companies already process their yarn mill waste wherever possible – especially using rotor spinning technology which is best suited for yarns containing a high short-fibre content. Virgin cotton already has an average short-fibre content of around 25%, but short-fibre content in recycled pre-consumer yarn waste averages around 47%.
In the past, the practice of incorporating a percentage of recycled content into cotton and blended yarns has not been specifically aimed at meeting sustainability goals, but simply about achieving an acceptable quality with the cheapest available fibres.
Sustainability targets
As the international brands look to meet their sustainability targets, however, yarns containing a high degree of recycled content are poised to become the market’s in-demand products.
Rotor spinning differs from traditional ring spinning by using centrifugal force to form yarn instead of a continuous drafting and twisting process. It is considerably faster than ring spinning because it eliminates the need for roving preparation and allows for the direct feeding of slivers into the spinning unit. Rotor spinning machines also operate at higher speeds and have fewer moving parts than ring spinning frames, making them more energy efficient.
A major drawback in rotor spinning, however, is a reduction in yarn strength. The technique introduces a higher degree of fibre breakage and less fibre alignment, resulting in weaker yarns. As a result, the structure of rotor-spun yarn, which incorporates a more open and less compact fibre arrangement, currently limits its use in high-end textiles like fine shirting, lingerie or luxury apparel. Fabrics made from rotor-spun yarns often feel rougher, which can be a disadvantage in applications where softness and comfort are essential.
Recycled content, however, is much more difficult to accommodate in traditional ring spinning. Nevertheless, across all spinning technologies, the major machinery manufacturers who will be present at ITMA Asia + CITME, Singapore 2025 are now pulling out all the stops to make high quality yarns containing the highest possible percentage of recycled content the new reality.
