Warp knitting machine builder Karl Mayer is exploring the use body-mapping systems as part of the evolution of its Rascheltronic technology. Gabriela Schellner, Head of the Textile Product Development at Karl Mayer has been working with her team on a new sportswear collection. “The sportswear sector wants to know what is happening in the machine building sector because this will determine textile developments for the next five to ten years,” she says.
Inspired by Flyknit technology, Schellner and her team focused on a fabric having integrated functionality when developing innovative textiles. “Young people and active people in particular are looking for tops and briefs that they can wear for sports as well as leisure activities,” she says, adding that at the same time, the raw edges and seams should be incorporated directly into the panels.
Designs having few seams minimise the making-up processes and reduce chafing during wear, she says, highlighting how the the RSJ 4/2 Rascheltronic technology is perfect for working a wide range of pattern constructions in a single fabric.
Possible lappings, structures and elastic moduli were incorporated into a library in the first stage. Bogart in Hong Kong, with all its experience with meeting the needs of the customer, then came into the game. This lingerie specialist produced a design with the required functional zones, which was then produced on the RSJ 4/2, E 28.
The result was 4-way-stretch fabrics with a breathable mesh design, stable areas, and zones having different elastic moduli to provide support and a perfect fit were produced – seamlessly next to each other and in those areas where they are needed.
For example, high force absorption is created in the zones around the bottom and muscles. In this case, a higher percentage of elastane was integrated into the fabric by means of the pattern. “The items produced are inspired by a sporty look, but the technology can also be used to produce feminine designs,” says Schellner.