For more than 110 years, Mayer & Cie. (MCT) has manufactured circular knitting machines that are used to make T-shirts, night wear, underwear and mattress covers, among others. The capital goods manufacturer from the Swabian Jura has received many patents and revolutionised the automated circular knitting process, and is now the global market leader in the field. Well over 95 per cent of its machines are exported: Mainly to Asia, starting with Turkey via India and Bangladesh to the very eastern countries like Indonesia and China; but also to other textile countries in America, Europe and Africa. The latest innovation from Mayer is the spinitsystems, a technology that combines spinning and knitting in the same machine for the first time.
Leading German circular knitting machine manufacturer recently showcased its ready-for-sale Fancy module for the Spinit 3.0 E, at recently held India ITME, Mumbai. In an interview with Knitting Views Editor Arvind Kumar, Michael A Tuschak, in charge of spinitsystems Marketing and Sales, discusses more about the new launch and plans for the Indian market.
Please tell us about the development of spinitsystems project?
It all started in 2004 when the first patent applications were made. Mayer & Cie. has been involved in combining spinning and knitting since then. Quite slowly to begin with, then the idea gained momentum, the team was set up and continually enlarged. In 2006, we carried out a feasibility study with a 48- system machine, a Relanit 1.6 E. That worked well and our target was then clear: To develop a marketable technology with a system capability.
We moved up to 90 systems, which required a new drafting technology. And that was what we were able to exhibit at the 2011 ITMA in Barcelona. In Barcelona we tested the market for feedback. The response was amazing. We felt confirmed and continued to develop the technology to make it finally marketready. We reached that stage in time for the 2015 ITMA.
Could you please describe concept behind the spinitsystems?
spinitsystems is a technology that has an out-of-the-ordinary approach. It combines the spinning and the knitting process. So, spinning, cleaning and knitting are done by only one machine. Knitwear is produced for the first time not from yarn but straight from roving. The rewinding process that used to be necessary is no longer required. This has many advantages e.g. the production process of single jersey knitwear takes much less time. That in turn leads to fewer machines being required. The investment outlay is reduced and space and energy are saved – again quite significantly. Yarn no longer needs to be stocked in such large quantities, there is less waste, and production costs are reduced.
After showcasing this technology in ITMA Milan, and now in INDIA ITME: How has been the response so far, especially in India?
We got excellent response at ITMA Milan, and at ITME India exhibition we received very good feedback from visitors who showed a lot of interest in our technology. We know India has a huge textiles market with very good textile companies using advance technologies, especially spinning mills. So our focus with this technology is fully integrated textile manufacturers and spinning mills. We consider India to be one of our important future markets, which was the reason why after ITMA we decided to display this machine here. We are here with our Indian partner Batliboi giving the live demonstrations of the machine, and got very good response. Everybody has seen it in ITMA and now wants to see what’s new with it. Customers now are interested in knowing how this technology can help them in their businesses. Here, we are meeting our existing customers but are also talking to potential new partners.
Please tell us about no. of units produced last year and you are planning in next two years?
For the time being, we are in pre-series, so numbers are not yet a major topic. What is important for us now is the fact that this is the last stage before mass production. As a machine manufacturer Mayer has a lot of experience, so we know we must focus on some key pilot projects. We are waiting to get some more information, results from our pilot customers who are using this machine. After that only we will be reaching the point for doing mass production. The timing depends on the quality of feedback we get.
Is it possible to knit different patterns with this technology?
Yes, there is possibility. This is a single jersey from technology point of view but if you see this there is special look and feel, which makes it different. In this technology, there is one fancy module which is an optional device available for this machine’s software and hardware. We use this to combine different yarn gauges in one pattern. This is a very different pattern, and we call it spinit fancy jersey. Single jersey is the mother of all knitwear, a commodity for which only the quantity really counts, and that is where we are setting ourselves apart with a spinit look and feel produced by the false-twist technology. The spinit produces a smooth single jersey that opens up entirely new options for our customers. It becomes even more characteristic with the fancy effects; there is a further dimension to our spinitsystems technology. That is why we call the fabric spinit Fancy Jersey.
What was the reason behind adding optional Fancy module in the spinit machine after ITMA Milan?
During ITMA Milan we exhibited our spinit 3.0 E spinning and knitting machine, a pre-series model. Along with that, as a sort of future perspective, we showed our clients how our patterning module could work. Fancy module was a real prototype then. Yet, we could present some very new patterning options. Even at this early stage, people got curious and interested. Yes, the Fancy module was largely responsible for our success in Milan. That was why we made use of the intervening time to present at the ITME in Mumbai a Fancy module. It is on a par with the spinit 3.0 E itself. So we can now deliver to the first pilot customers.
What’s the difference between Fancy module patterns and jacquard patterns?
The spinit generates patterned designs by producing thicker and thinner yarns via electronic drafting systems that are then knitted to precisely the right needle. The fact that changing the yarn gauge creates the pattern means that the pattern always has a soft, pastel-like transition. This effect is the typical transition from transparent to opaque pattern areas.
With a conventional knitting machine that generates the pattern by means of single needle selection this soft transition does not occur. The individual needle either stitches or it doesn’t. That leads to the well-known clear contours in a jacquard pattern. By changing the yarn gauge via the drafting system we can produce patterns and effects, especially devoré or burnout patterns, that are totally different in appearance from jacquard patterns. The Fancy module is also highly suitable for the irregular slub effects that are very popular at the moment. Intarsia designs, which are entirely geometrical, can also be produced in a special spinit dimension.
Why do you think a customer should prefer producing these patterns on a Spinit rather than a Jacquard machine?
Electronically controlled drafting systems are a core component of the Spinit. The motors of the drafting systems can be controlled very precisely and they can switch numbers very fast. For us it went without saying that we were going to use this existing technology for patterning too.
How potential is the Indian market for the spinit 3.0 E with the Fancy module?
India is one of our cluster markets and a market where we are superbly positioned with our representative Batliboi. The customers in India are experienced and have a wealth of knowhow, especially in spinning. India, after all, has many large modern spinning mills and fully integrated textile producers. They are an audience we need to convince yet again because, when series production of the spinit gets under way, India will be one of our most important markets.
Do we need special care or technology for post process (Dyeing/finishing) of fabric made out of this machine?
A potential customer can do the same process/post process to his spinit jersey he applies with his standard jersey. Yet, what this post process looks like exactly depends on the demands and business models of our customers.
Do you feel India could be the biggest market for this kind of product due to large no. of spinning mills?
India could certainly become a very strong market for our spinit.
Since its launch in ITMA Milan how many machine you have sold globally?
With spinit 3.0 E, we’re still in pre-series, so it’s not yet our aim to produce the machine in big numbers. We are focusing on a few pilot projects. To that end, we have started the machine’s gradual roll-out to the different cluster markets. India is one of those cluster markets.
When is the first machine coming to India?
India is one of Mayer & Cie.’s key markets. It is home to many integrated manufacturers and spinning mills always looking for new approaches. That’s why it is our first cluster market for spinit 3.0 E. The first machines are already in India. There, our pilot customers are working with them under everyday conditions. They are collecting data we use to get ready for series production.
What is the production capacity of this machine when compared to normal single jersey machine?
spinit 3.0 E works with 90 feeders at 25 rpm. It produces 20 kilos per hour of a fabric with with 130 gsm. When looking at spinit 3.0 E, it is sensible to consider the entire process the machine covers. It is not a conventional single jersey machine, but combines three processes – spinning, cleaning and knitting – in one single machine. Simply comparing its output to that of a conventional single jersey machine would mean comparing apples and oranges.
What were the biggest challenges you faced during the last ten years development stage?
We found that we were unable to produce an acceptable material quality without cleaning the raw material. Prior to Barcelona we were already aware that cleaning of the raw material was indispensable. To say that is one thing; to find a good solution for it is another matter entirely. We worked flat out on a patented solution of our own. That was a great step forward between the Barcelona ITMA and the Milan ITMA in 2015.
What is so special about the machine from your viewpoint?
The compact and at the same time modular design convinced me. And then the cleaning; it sets us apart from other concepts because we can influence the quality. We naturally have certain framework conditions that are set by the flyer roving, but by cleaning we can define our quality precisely within this framework.
